Front Axle: 1986 Grand Wagoneer full-time hubs
as a replace the disk brakes project... So much for simple tasks.
Actually it's really simple.
DISC BRAKE AND HUB:
the vehicle up on jack stands (a must you may have to use force
A. the front
wheels should be off the ground
B. Use a freind to apply brakes to loosen lug nuts or loosen before
2. Remove wheels/tires
caliper bolts, used a 3/8 disk caliper rachet tool
the caliper by strong wire (coat hanger) off the shock mount 5.
Use a blunt punch (or screw driver you've broken before) and a RUBBER
hammer to remove the dust cap from the hub, light hits at 12 6 3
and 9 O'clock (that's the sequence I used!)
the drive gear back slightly and remove the C clip retainer
(note the orientation of the drive gear inside vs outside)
drive gear and spring
the outer locknut using a 4 prong socket for 1/2 ton/1 ton Dana
(Found a great deal at Advanced Auto Parts $10 and it has a solid
outer ring around the 4 prongs, makes the reinstall of the lock
ring easier and a stronger tool)
inner locknut (it has a post on the outer side take note)
The hub is now
ready to pull from the axle. A slight tug on the disk rotor will
loosen the outer wheel bearing. Note the protective cup on the outer
side of the bearing. I could find no mention in several books about
this cup. It protects the wheel bearing from the retaining spring
you removed earlier. Make sure this cup is in GOOD shape. If your
not sure go look at one the dealer or junk yard. Replace it if your
not sure, if the spring gets into the bearing it wears it out pretty
Take the bearings
and hub down and get them cleaned. I have a buddy that has a garage
and lets me use his cleaning tank. When you regrease the bearings
you want them clean, some greases are not compatable with others.
Also insure that your using grease for disk brake systems, it handles
the higher temperatures better.
Now to the axle
removal. Take some time to get familier with the axle area, you
may need this knowledge during reinstall. Note the U joints between
the spindle. Take your time. The next part is the easy part.
Remove the 6 bolts holding the brake baking plate on the spindle
(there is a 7th small bolt not in the cicle pattern, remove it too)
the brake baking plate and place out of the way
penetrating oil around where the spindle sits in the steering knuckle
(go get a soda or coffee, play with the dog, just get away for awhile)
your flat punch/broken screw driver and a solid hammer. Using firm
hits at 12 6 3 and 9 O'clock (that's the sequence I used!) loosen
the spindle from the knuckle
it's loosened the spindle should pull free
the axles is free, remove it slowly, there is a seal at the diff
and you don't want tear it as you pull the axle out
I had the U
joints in the axle pressed out, $60 for parts and labor.
back together is reverse of the removal process... Ya right.
the splines on the axle and all surfaces, cleanliness makes sure
it goes together all the way and that it won't brake later due to
the splines on differntial side with grease, this will help them
slide go through the seal with minimal damage
the tricky part, slide the axle in to the differental splines without
letting the end fail down!! Ya right. The best I could do was get
the axle most of the way in letting it rest on the axle housing.
You'll FEEL the axle touch the seal, if you go slow. Then I took
a rachet handle and placed it in the axle housing opening under
the axle and used it as a lever to lift the far end of the axle.
Slow and with patientance it went right in!
it feels in, have a friend hold the other axle and turn your side
to see if it's engaged. Ya right. This is the first axle. Rotating
the axle back and forth you can feel the weight of the differential
on the axle.
sure the spline housing is clean and free of grit, slide it over
the axle into the steering knuckle
THE BRAKE BAKING PLATE BACK ON!! I forgot mine until trying to put
the caliper back on. It won't work.
the 7th bolt in first, don't tighten all the way
the 6 bolts in a star pattern, go slow incase the spindle housing
is not completely seated, it will jam.
Your axle is
now back in place. It may not feel like it turns correctly. The
hub holds the axle in the correct position, that will be your best
test and not far away.
My discs where
resurfaced and had the bearing replaced, so all was clean and wheel
bearing repacked. Wheel bearings and seals where in place. Make
sure all parts are clean and free of grit.
Make sure the spindle is clean and free of grit
the hub back on the splindle, give it a gentle push, the seal will
then snug up to the spindle
the outer wheel bearing into hub and push into place with your fingers
get the drive gear and slip in on to the axle and into the hub,
it may take some twisting of the hub and axle to get them to line
up. Once in place NOW test the axle to insure fonte is no grinding
or binding parts. None GOOD!! If there is some; this is where getting
familiar with the axle setup before we took things apart becomes
GOLD. You'll find what missing or put in wrong.
the drive gear
the protective cup over the wheel bearing
the COOL cup on the 4 prong tool (what you didn't get that tool?)
install the inner locknut (the one with the peg on it), make sure
the peg is on the outside.
a torque wrench AND TURNING THE HUB tighten the locking ring to
50 foot pounds. This seats the bearing. Then back off 1/8th of a
turn. This should be the proper pressure for the bearing. (Got that
from the Haynes manual and it seemed quite correct)
tricky part getting the lock ring in place, but the hole on the
ring must go over the post on the inner locknut AND in the keyed
the outer locknut torque to 50 pounds
the retaining spring, narrow side in
the drive gear and C clip
some silicone sealer on the dust cap surface (What you don't get
yours in water???) and push back into the hub
The rest is
putting the caliper back on and the wheel.