This is a little
long but hope it might help on some of cooling problems I have read
about. After 20 + engine conversions into jeeps, each with its own
unique cooling problems, I have developed a few points that may
are made of several configuration, the primary thing in comparing
cost is to make sure that apples are compared to apples!! The number
of rows in the core is the first thing but is no more important
than the number of tubes and the fin count. The typical wagon radiator
without the tow package was a 2 row 32 tube 10 fins/inch with a
flat top tank up to the late 80s. Tow packages was typical a 3 row
32 tube 10 to 12 fins/inch.
A high efficient
radiator will generally be a 4 row core with 42 tubes and a minimum
of 16 fins/inch. The high efficient radiators will cool approx.
50% better than the standard 3 core unit.
The flat top
tanks were very weak and developed cracks on the sharp corners.
The newer round tanks will survive high heat and vibration much
a catch, the high efficient cores will run from 30% to 50% more
There is a shop
here (Colo. Spgs.) that has the new 3 row stock unit with round
tanks for $175.00. I posted earler that a high efficient 4 row unit
would be around $285.
The trans cooler
is in the radiator most may have a additional cooler, but generally
mounted in front of the radiator. If this is moved to the rear of
the vehicle under the floor it will help considerable. The trany
fluid is running about 250°, this is dumped into the cooler
in front of the radiator superheating the air going into the radiator.
I have mounted a small heater motor and fan so additional air flow
can be created on the remote cooler.
Engine oil also
adds to the problem as it will generally be in the 225-275°
range with water temp around 200°. a remote oil cooler and fan
again mounted to the rear will cut cooling problems considerable.
shrouded fan will pull at least 30% more air than a open unit. I
have gone as far to glue rubber all around the shroud to prevent
any air from being pulled around the sides of the radiator. I am
currently using a stock jeep plastic shoud and works great. if you
build a shroud the fan should not be into the shroud over 1/3 of
the blade width. To much shroud can be bad as extra noise and turblence
will decrease its efficiency.
Fan size and
pitch are vary crital as to the amount of air is being pulled through
the radiator. the pitch on the blades determines the amount of air
is moved. this can be checked by simple laying the fan on a flat
surface and measuring the height of the blades. I have found that
the 19-1/2" 7 blade fan from a GM??? 454 works quite well on the
jeep engines. These generally run a clutch and the clutch must be
matched to the fan size. if to small it will not lock up and allow
the fan to slip when needed the most.
The under hood
temp gets very high and the hot air must be allowed to leave the
engine compartment. the rubber dust guard on the inner fender well
that go, sometimes down to the fram, hinders the air flow. If thes
are removed the exhaust heat and engine heat can escape easier.
Before modifications, I was actually boiling the windshield washer
fluid causing it to spit water out on the windshield.
Hope this has
not been to long and boreing and helps some of you with the heat