|

In-Tank
Fuel Pump
From
an email on CFSJA list by Hari Rajagopal (formatted and minor
editing)
The
pump is $30 and believe me, unless you smoke while dealing with
volatile chemicals, it's quite safe. Essentially here's the procedure:
-
Go to checkers and get a pump for a 1988 - 1991 GMC/Chevy pickup
(1/2 ton, 4wd), get
the strainer that goes with it (not incl. in the pump kit) ($5)
- Get
home, flip up rear seat , pull back carpet (1980 and later only)
grind off screw heads, pry up the disc shaped cover to access
the fuel tank sender get a high pressure air gun or compressed
air (available at COMPUSA or other computer stores) and blow ALL
debris away
-
Remove + and - wires to the sender
- Remove
the outlet (larger) and the return (smaller) hoses, You can leave
the third hose to the left where it is
- Remove
huge ring holding cover and sender plate in place
- Now,
(since there are a couple of different tank shapes this needs
to be done) take a stick or a ruler and place in the opening and
lower it until you touch the tank bottom. Measure the depth of
the tank from the sender plate take the sender assembly lay it
flat on the floor, you will find that the strainer at the end
of the pickup tube cut off the pickup tube to a length so that
the fuel pump,
- When
hooked up via the rubber sleeve provided is an inch or so off
the bottom of the tank attach the pump securely (having prepared
the wiring as per the sheet that comes with it) to the pickup
tube Test for fit by replacing it in the tank and seeing if the
plate fits flush with the tank
- Remove
and detach the pump. Drill a 5/32 " hole in the disc and thread
the pump wires through it Seal this with a gasoline resistant
seal / blob of gasket maker
- Replace
pump and sender assembly and replace lock washer
- Replace
hoses. Now might be a good time to replace them with newer hose
if they are spongy and rotted out Tighten
clamps
- Wire
the pump with a relay in the engine compartment and triggered
by the coil + lead (see the write up on wiring the Aux. fan at
the CFSJA site for more details)
[Note:
You want it to run when the ignition switch is in Run or Start
and while the coil + lead is one option, you could also wire to
the power lead for the late model Duraspark module which can then
power a relay, drawing from the battery to power the pump. Also,
don't forget to use a fuse for the pump circuit]
When
I started it up I had it wired through the mech. pump but the extra
pressure from the intank pump must have ruptured the diaphgram and
the mech pump started leaking, so I removed it Get a block off plate
for a BBC (Big block chevy) avail from Checkers in the perf. section
block off the hole for the mech pump.
Remember
to use a new filter crank it up and enjoy
 
|